Wiring up the race car

[Simon Crook]

As I have now found myself with a bit of time on my hands (due to the script writers of America strike :x ) and my Ards test booked in February.

I have decided that I am going to wire up the race car myself!

Can anyone offer any advice on wire size, fuses relays etc. etc. or anything else I might need.......

many thanks

[Shaun Calvert]

Hi Simon

Having wired a few cars now it would seem everybody has there own way. Some stip out all the original and start again and some expand on the existing 2cv system.

My prefered way is to start again using 7 core trailer lighting cable for the rear lights, heavy duty switches (the type used in agricultural machinery and factory control panels). This does away with the need for relays. I use a steel braided flex called SY cable for all the underbonnet stuff. It is almost unbreakable (heat, fuel, oil and crush resistant) I also make my own battery leads to length. I use a 4 or 6 way fuse box. 1 Alternator. 2 ignition, fuel gauge rev counter etc. 3 wipers and indicators. 4 rear lights, rain light, brake lights. And if needed for 24Hour 5 and 6 for head lights. I always keep ignition on a sperate fuse so that if all others blow the engine keeps running. Same reason for head lights if one blows you still have the other to get round with. Alot of people use a trailer plug and socket on the bulkhaed for the 24Hour lighting bar.

This way has been commented on as being a bit heavy, but most of the cars I have built have ended up needing extra weight to make the limit. I can honestly say I have never had a problem with electrics this way. I guess it helps being in the electrical trade.

At the end of the day any way that does the job efficiantly will work well, just stay away from connector blocks with the screw terminals, use crimped connectors where needed and use cable with multiple copper strands not one solid one as these will snap at the joints in any car.

Hope this doesnt confuse you even more.

Shaun.

Forgot to say to calculate amps, divide Power (watts) by Voltage i.e. a 55watt headlight is 4.5 amps @ 12 Volts (55 divided by 12). If you do this, I always use 12 as voltage not the 14.4 Volts that the engine runs at.

[pat collier]

Excellent bit of info

[Simon Crook]

Thanks Shaun, I have already stripped out all the old wiring, too many joins, added bits etc etc, I've got the trailer cable ready for the rear, the SY cable sounds a good idea for the front end, I will keep you posted.

many thanks